Oudong Ride

Located approximately 40 kilometers northwest of Phnom Penh, Phnom Oudong (Oudong Hill) stands as one of Cambodia’s most significant historical and spiritual landmarks. For travelers looking to step outside the modern bustle of Phnom Penh, a day trip to Oudong offers a deep dive into Cambodia’s post-Angkorian history, sacred Buddhist traditions, and panoramic countryside views.

1. A Brief History: The Royal Capital (1618–1866)

The word “Oudong” is derived from the Sanskrit word Uttunga, meaning “supreme” or “victorious.”

• The Foundation: Following the abandonment of the previous medieval capital, Longvek, after an attack by Siamese forces, King Srei Soryapor founded Oudong in 1601. In 1618, it officially became the royal capital of the Khmer Kingdom.

• The Golden Era & Relocation: For over 250 years, Oudong served as the political and cultural heartbeat of Cambodia. During the mid-19th century reign of King Ang Duong, the city experienced a grand renaissance with the construction of canals, bridges, and hundreds of pagodas. However, its time as the capital ended in 1866 when King Norodom moved the royal court to Phnom Penh under French colonial influence.

• Wartime Scars: The hill is also a poignant reminder of Cambodia’s modern struggles. During the civil conflicts of the 1970s, it saw heavy fighting between the Khmer Rouge and Lon Nol/US forces. The Khmer Rouge systematically blew up and destroyed many of the historic shrines on the hill because they were viewed as royalist monuments.

2. Main Historical & Cultural Highlights for Tourists

Oudong Hill actually appears as two distinct ridge-lines, with the larger main ridge named Phnom Preah Reach Throap (“Hill of the Royal Fortune”), so-called because a 16th-century king allegedly hid the national treasury inside it. Reaching the top requires climbing roughly 500 to 509 steps, but the path is well-shaded and lined with major points of interest.

• The Three Royal Stupas (Chedis): Near the peak stand three grand, weathered stupas acting as the royal necropolis for past Khmer kings:

  • Damrei Sam Poan: Built by King Chey Chetha II to hold the ashes of his predecessor and the founder of the city, King Srei Soryapor. It features weathered elephant carvings.

  • Ang Duong Stupa: Built in 1891 by King Norodom to honor his father, King Ang Duong. It is instantly recognizable by its vibrant, colored tiles and Khmer ornamentation.

  • Mak Proum Stupa: Houses the remains of King Monivong. Its upper portion is intricately decorated with four Bayon-style faces looking out toward the four cardinal points.

• Vihear Preah Edthareus (Arthaross Temple): Known as the temple of the “18 cubits,” this structure originally housed a massive 18-meter-tall Buddha. Uniquely, the Buddha faces north toward China instead of the traditional east. Legend states a Chinese emperor feared Cambodia’s power and built the north-facing temple to pin down a giant mythical Naga serpent sleeping underneath the hill, keeping Cambodia submissive. Today, the temple columns stand open to the sky, still bearing the battle scars of 1970s heavy artillery.

• Preah Sanchak Mony Chedai (The Relic Stupa): Perched on the highest point of the mountain ridge is a magnificent, modern white-and-gold stupa completed in 2002. It houses highly revered relics of the Buddha (including an eyebrow hair) that were moved here from Phnom Penh amidst a massive national procession.

• The Khmer Rouge Memorial: At the base of the hill sits a solemn stupa memorial containing the bones and remains of victims recovered from roughly 100 mass graves excavated in the surrounding area, offering a sobering look at Cambodia’s tragic history.

3. Surrounding Tourist Experiences

• Vipassana Dhura Buddhist Meditation Center: Located near the base of the hill, this is the largest Buddhist center in Cambodia. It is a massive, highly decorative complex predominantly occupied by Buddhist nuns and monks practicing silent meditation.

• Koh Chen (Silversmith Village): Most tours to Oudong make a stop at the nearby island village of Koh Chen on the Tonle Sap River. The village is famous for generations of artisans who handcraft intricate silver, copper, and brass ornaments, jewelry, and bowls.

• Local Culinary Stops: At the base of the hill, you’ll find clusters of local picnic huts and food stalls. It is a very popular spot for locals on the weekend to eat roasted chicken, sweet palm fruit, and Khmer delicacies.

4. Practical Travel Tips

• Getting There: It takes about 1 hour to 1 hour and 20 minutes to reach Oudong from Phnom Penh by car or taxi, though taking a traditional open-air tuk-tuk offers a scenic, breezy ride through traditional fishing villages and rice paddies.

• Crowds: Weekends can be packed with local families enjoying picnics. If you prefer a quiet, serene, and almost empty historic experience, plan your visit for a weekday morning.

• Dress Code: Because Oudong is actively revered as a sacred pilgrimage site, tourists must dress respectfully (shoulders and knees covered). You will also need to remove your shoes when entering the temple platforms at the top.

• Local Guides: You will often encounter local Cambodian children who speak impressive conversational English. They love walking with tourists to point out historic features and share local legends for a small tip/donation.